Dust was going up my nose and covering my clothes. It was in my hair and in my eyes. “Only three more hours,” I thought. “Three more hours of dust and cold, and then we’ll be there.”

I had broken my standard 9 a.m. wake-up call to get to the Tatio Geysers at first light, when they are said to be their most resplendent. This is the highest geyser field in the world, located just three dusty hours from the northern Chile oasis of San Pedro de Atacama, smack dab in the middle of the driest desert in the world, the Atacama.

Arriving at the geysers in the freezing, translucent dawn, I spotted a viscacha, a small rodent indigenous to the Andes, while a huge plume of vapor shot high into the air above me, the pulverized water falling in chartreuse, blue and indigo sheets. Yes, getting up at 4 in the morning during a vacation does sound like the dream of a borderline masochist, but it was worth it.

With narrow dirt streets and whitewashed adobe dwellings, San Pedro reminds you of Santa Fe 20 years ago: a funky artist community on the verge of international stardom. And like most villages in this part of the world, the majority of the action centers on the central plaza, where visitors find the Iglesia San Pedro, an amazing adobe church miraculously constructed without the use of a single nail — the builders used cactus sinews to tie the roof beams and door hinges.

San Pedro’s story goes back to pre-Columbian times, when the Atacameno people scraped a meager living from the fertile delta of the Loa River. By the 19th century, San Pedro had become an important trading center and was a stop for llama trains on their way from the altiplano (high plains) to the Pacific Coast. Today, the town focuses its energy on catering to tourists, but the region is still rich in minerals, and not far from here you will find one of the world’s largest open-pit copper mines at Chiquicamata.

Locals say the massive copper deposits pull the earth’s energy into the region, acting like a giant mystical magnet. And to feel the desert wind at your back while sitting atop the nearby sand dune in Valle de la Luna, the Valley of the Moon — so named for its out-of-this-world lunar landscape — one is sure to feel the intimacy and womblike warmth of the Atacama.

While the Tatio Geysers and Valle de la Luna are certainly the biggest draws in the area, there are about a dozen high-quality excursions available. You can head out for a day to check out the Salar de Atacama, Chile’s largest salt flat; explore a 12th-century fortress known as Pukara de Quitor; or travel by jeep to the numerous high-Andean lagoons painted pink by the visiting colonies of flamingos. And for travelers with a bit more time, there’s multiday adventures to challenge yourself (and your lungs) on the massive volcanoes looming over town, long-haul horseback trips that bring you to forgotten Andean villages, and night excursions out into the desert, where local astronomers reveal the remarkable tales of the amazing night skies.

But a visit to San Pedro is more than just a chance for some high-flying adventure. It’s a chance to connect with that cosmic whole, to explore your inner chi and, above all, to commune with other modern-day pilgrims drawn to this outpost of civilization in an austere, harsh land.

Planning your trip: San Pedro is located about 60 miles from the large mining town of Calama. LanChile (www.lan.com, 866-435-9526) offers daily flights from major U.S. cities to Santiago ($700 and up) and flights to Calama from Santiago. From Calama, take a bus or rent-a-car to San Pedro.

You can easily visit the area’s attractions in three days. Excursions begin at around $34 per person. Cactus Tour (011-56-55-851-534, www.cactustour.cl) and Cosmo Andino (011-6-55-851-069, cosmoandino@entelchile.net) are two of the area’s best tour operators.

Where to eat: There are at least a dozen eateries along San Pedro’s main drag, Caracoles. Try La Casona (011-56-55-851-004, Caracoles 195) for rambling open-air atmosphere and tiptop international cuisine, including a sumptuous vegetarian pasta and crispy homemade pizzas. At Las Delicias de Carmen (Calama 370), Dona Carmen serves up some of the best empanadas (pastries stuffed with everything from fresh seafood to veggies) in town.

Where to stay: Lodging ranges from no-frills youth hostels to $500-a-night lessons in opulence -- www.sanpedroatacama.com has hotel information. The best backpacker spot in town is the Hosteling International Youth Hostel (011-56-55-851-426, hiatacama@hostelling.cl, Caracoles 360), with dormitory rooms and a cool common area for hanging out with fellow travelers. Arguably the most intimate of San Pedro’s upscale hotels, Hotel Terrantai (011-56-55-851-045, www.terrantai.com, Tocopilla 411) features high, narrow passageways made of smooth rocks from the Loa River leading guests to simple, elegant rooms. A bamboo-shaded sculpture garden and delicious (albeit small) dip pool lend the Terrantai a spa-like feel.

Greg Benchwick is co-authoring the latest edition of Lonely Planet’s Chile guide.